Complete Guide to Growing Anthuriums from Seed

Most people think growing anthuriums from seed is some dark art, reserved for horticulturalists or plant nerds who obsess over their green plant babies. They’re wrong. It’s a process. And like any process, it can be learned. It’s not about luck; it’s about getting the inputs right. I’m going to give you the exact blueprint. No fluff, no theories. Just the step-by-step system I use to get consistent, explosive results.

Why Bother Growing Anthuriums from Seed Anyway?

Look, buying a mature plant is instant gratification. I get it. You see a stunning plant, you buy it, you put it on a shelf. Done.

Growing from seed is a whole different game. It’s about playing the genetic lottery. You cross two parent plants you love, and the seedlings are a surprise bag of traits. Some might look like the mum, some like the dad, and a few… a few will be something completely new. That’s the addiction. It’s the “what if” that gets you hooking up your plants like a mad scientist.

This guide is your map. It covers everything from setting up, feeding, and getting your new plant babies ready for their new life.

Setting Up Your Growing Space

First things first, you need a nursery for your future plant babies. And no, you don't need a climate-controlled greenhouse that costs thousands.

Your number one goal is 100% humidity. Non-negotiable.

Anthurium seeds are basically naked little embryos. Without constant moisture, they dry out and die. It’s that simple. You need to trap the humidity.

Here are your options, from cheapest to best:

• A plastic storage tub from Kmart or Bunnings.
• A cheap propagation tray with lid from Bunnings. These little plastic trays with clear dome lids are perfect. They cost around $15 and get the job done.
• Larger propagation trays with a humidity dome. If you’re planning on doing this at scale, grab a few of these.

Choose Your Growing Method

Now, where are you going to put the seeds? You’ve got a few choices, but I’m just going to tell you what works best.

I use passive hydroponics.

What is it? It's a simple, self-watering system with no moving parts. The growing medium wicks water up from a reservoir at the bottom of the tray.

Why do I swear by it?

• It’s consistent. The medium is always perfectly moist, never waterlogged and never bone dry. This is huge for tiny, sensitive roots.
• It’s clean. No soil means less risk of pests and fungus.
• Feeding is dead simple. You know exactly what nutrients your seedlings are getting because you’re the one providing them in the water.

What about the other options?

• Sphagnum moss and perlite: A classic mix. It holds heaps of water. But, I find it hard to feed the seedlings properly without it becoming a soggy mess or having dry pockets. It’s a bit of a guessing game.
• Orchid potting mix: Another decent choice if you add extra perlite for chunkiness. But again, it can be tough to keep the moisture and nutrient levels consistent for tiny seeds.

You can make those work. But if you want to remove the guesswork and get better results, go with passive hydro.

Your Seed's First Home: Make It a Good One

The growing medium is your seed’s bed, kitchen, and living room all rolled into one. It needs to have three key qualities:

1. Airy: Roots need to breathe.
2. Chunky: Prevents it from compacting and turning to mud.
3. Moisture-retentive: It needs to act like a sponge, holding water for the roots.

I use my own custom blended seed-raising medium, but for most hobbyist growers, simplicity is best:

• Tree fern fibre and perlite.

Just mix them together. The tree fern holds moisture, and the perlite keeps it light and airy.

Other options like fluval stratum or Lechuza Pon can also work a treat. Don’t overthink it. Pick one, stay clean, and stick with it.

Don't Screw This Up: Planting Your Seeds the Right Way

Alright, you’ve got your setup. Now for the fun part. Handling anthurium seeds is a bit like performing micro-surgery, but without the pressure.

You’ve probably got one of two types of seeds: lightly germinated, or heavily germinated possibly even with a leaf starting to emerge.

I prefer to sell lightly germinated seeds because that’s my preference when it comes to planting them.

Look closely at your seed. See that tiny little bump or nub sticking out? That’s the radicle. It’s the baby root. This is the most important part.

Your planting technique is simple:

• Radicle faces down. Always. This little root wants to grow into the medium, not up into the air.
• If your seedling has a leaf emerging, you want the leaf & petiole to be above the medium too.
• Don’t bury the seed. Just nestle it on top of the medium. The body of the seed needs light and air. If you bury it, it will rot. If the radicle is a bit long, just poke a small hole in the medium and guide it in, leaving the seed sitting on the surface.

That’s it. Radicle down. Seed on top. Leaf in the air. You’re done.

The Biggest Myth About Feeding Seedlings (And What to Do Instead)

Here’s where I’m going to go against almost everything you’ve probably read online.

“Wait to fertilise your seedlings until they have their first true leaves.”

This is absolute rubbish. A seed has a small energy pack, but that’s it. From the moment that radicle emerges, it’s looking for food. If you don’t provide it, you’re basically starving your plants from birth. Feed from day one.

My Exact Fertiliser Recipe for Explosive Growth

First, your water needs to be right. Use dechlorinated water—either let tap water sit out for 24 hours, use a dechlorination product or use rainwater.

Get a cheap pH pen and adjust your pH, aiming for a pH of around 5.0. I go a little lower than the ‘ideal’ 5.5–6.0 because the pH will naturally drift up over time.

Here’s what I mix up:

• Growth Technology Concentrated Clone Solution (CCS): My base nutrient.
• Kelp supplement: This is the secret sauce. Kelp provides hormones that stimulate root growth. I recommend Growth Technology Root Zone or Neutrog Seamungus.
• Microbes & Mycorrhizae: A healthy medium is a living medium. Beneficial bacteria protect against nasties and make nutrients easier to absorb.

I recommend something with Bacillus spp. to help prevent root rot & damping off. I use Tribus by Impello Bioscience. I also use Xtreme Gardening Mykos to help promote stronger roots. In addition to these, I also use Neutrog’s GoGo Juice as a source of beneficial microbes.

If you want to keep it super simple, an all-in-one product like Plant Revolution’s Great White is your best option.

Mix it all up at weak seedling strength and use this for your initial soaking and in your passive hydro reservoir. Consistency is everything.

I like to keep ~3mm of nutrients in the bottom of each tray. I top up the trays as necessary or usually completely change the nutrients in each tray once a month; flushing the medium to prevent any buildup of salts & excess nutrients.

The 'Set It and Forget It' Environment for Explosive Growth

You’ve planted and fed your seeds. Now you play the waiting game. Your job is to provide a stable environment and then leave them alone. Stop opening the lid every five minutes.

Here are the optimal numbers:

• Humidity: 100%. Keep that lid on tight. Don’t open it unless you suspect a problem.
• Temperature: Daytime around 25°C, nighttime no colder than 18°C.
• Light: 50-100 PPFD, 12–16 hours per day, DLI ~3.5-4.5. Start low and ramp up.

My personal tip: I like to grow my seedlings a little “bleached”—higher light that makes them look pale but grow faster. Just don’t overdo it.

Your Babies Are Growing Up: How to Move Them Out

Once they have 4–5 leaves and look like real plants, they’re ready to acclimate. Don’t shock them:

1. Start venting the dome a tiny crack each day.
2. Gradually open more over 1–2 weeks.
3. Let the medium dry slightly to condition roots.
4. When they handle ambient air without wilting, pot them up.

It's a Marathon, Not a Sprint

So there you have it. The complete process, A to Z. It’s not complex. It just requires attention to detail. The biggest keys are consistency and patience.

Get your humidity to 100%. Feed them from day one with pH-adjusted nutrients. Give them stable warmth and gentle light. Then walk away. Let them do their thing. You'll be amazed at what happens when you get the inputs right.

Start Your Seed Growing Adventure Now!